Tuesday, January 31, 2017

The Great Dictator: Film Analysis

The Great Dictator:  Film Analysis
            Linda Sherman was a Jewish girl born in Amsterdam in 1926 and she was one of 7 children.  Their father passed away, and they ended up in an all girls’ Jewish home that was very strict and Orthodox.  Hungarian Erika Jacoby was born in 1928 and attended an Orthodox Jewish high school with 1600 other girls.  Countries like Czechoslovakia, Poland and Hungary felt safe from the Nazis because they were allies of Germany; the Jews thought they were safe and life went on for them, for the time being, as usual.  So begins the dark tale told in the movie, Swimming in Auschwitz.
            In 1937, as people began to forget about the tragedies of the First World War, the threat of Hitler and the Nazis began to arise.  This was a scary time.  In his autobiography, Charlie Chaplin writes, “…I was trying to write a story for Paulette [Goddard]; but I could make no progress.  How could I throw myself into feminine whimsy or think of romance or the problems of love when madness was being stirred up by a hideous, grotesque, Adolf Hitler?” (p386).  In other words, Chaplin felt there were more important world issues that could and should be addressed.  So, the idea occurred to him to write a parody about Hitler.  He played two roles in the film:  his iconic Tramp character was that of a Jewish barber (whose role is mostly silent), and also the role of Hynkel (the Hitler character), who has much more dialogue.  Before the film was finished, England declared war on the Nazis.  The Nazis invaded Russia before Chaplin even started filming (Chaplin, p388)
            During production, Chaplin received multiple letters encouraging him not to make the film.  People were worried, but Chaplin was unyielding.  Threats were made to blow up the theatres where the film was being shown and others threatened to create riots (Chaplin, p392).   My own grandmother saw the film in a theater in New York City when it came out and she said she was terrified the whole time that the Nazis were going to blow them up.  In its day, for obvious reasons, it was a very controversial film!  Nevertheless, after playing for 2 weeks in New York in 2 theaters, it ended up being the biggest money making motion picture up to that time (Chaplin, p393). 
            Swimming in Auschwitz goes on to explain that the Jewish population in Europe went from 20% in 1938 to a mere 6% in 1944.  In Hungary, from 5/15/44-7/8/44 – just 54 days – 147 trains carried away 437,402 Jews.  This was a 3 day train ride in cattle cars.  There were no bathrooms, no water and no air.  Arriving at the camps, their luggage was taken away.  They were made to strip, their heads were shaven and all their body hair was shaven.  They were left outside in the night.  People would yell, “Look at the fire and chimneys and the smoke!”  There were those that believed it was the bakeries or factories where they would find work, but the overseers explained to them it was the gas chambers.  Of the 1600 girls at Erika Jacoby’s school, a mere 20 survived. 
            The women’s barracks were built to hold 52 horses, but each held about 800 women.
            Swimming in Auschwitz became increasingly difficult for me to watch.  The survivors talked about seeing babies thrown into fire pits.  One woman that had been a nurse in her former life recounted helping a woman give birth to a baby.  She cut the umbilical cord with her teeth.  The Nazis took the baby to clean it, washed it and then shot it. 
            In my own experience, almost one year ago exactly, I had the opportunity to visit Prague.  They have what they call a Jewish Museum, which is a series of synagogues and cemeteries in what was once the Jewish ghetto.  One room in The Pinkas Synagogue includes children’s drawings that were found in a large box.  The images included trains leaving stations and of people being hung.  These drawings were made by children that were maybe 6 years old.  In the main part of the synagogue, the walls are covered in some 80,000 names of Jews that left the Jewish ghetto in Prague and never came back.  Needless to say, the genocide that took place in Europe during World War II is something one cannot grasp unless one sees it on such a personal level.

 

            In his autobiography, Chaplin writes, “Had I known of the actual horrors of the German concentration camps, I could not have made The Great Dictator.  I could not have made fun of the homicidal insanity of the Nazis.” (p388).  He goes on to explain that what his intent was, was to mock their ridiculous idea that there could ever be a perfect race.  He says, “As though such a thing ever existed outside of the Australian aboriginals.” (p388)  In other words, they are so far removed from the rest of this crazy world that their culture and their tradition are the oldest surviving one on our planet.  And they are peaceful.
            The subject matter of The Great Dictator quite clearly relates to the political context of its day.  It was extremely controversial at the time.  The audience first gets a laugh at the Germans when we see the giant cannon “Big Bertha”.  It is capable of launching bombs 75 or so miles away and its intended target was a cathedral in France.  In its place it hit the watershed.  On a second attempt, the bomb just fell out of the cannon and they very nearly blew themselves up instead.  Also, Chaplin does a wonderful job in his initial speech as Hynkel, which he gives in gibberish-German.  The Minister of the Interior is even called “Herr Garbage”.  As afraid of Hitler and of the Nazi’s the world at this time was, Chaplin successfully gives us the opportunity to laugh at him and his regime.  Chaplin has been quoted as saying, “Humor heightens our sense of survival and preserves our sanity.” 
            The last scene of the film is not so funny.  The Dictator’s speech I must have watched twenty times over, and it still makes me cry.  The film is obviously concentrating on a world facing The Second World War, but the message Chaplin delivers in this speech is timeless. He says, “I should like to help everyone – if possible – Jew, Gentile – black men – white…. The way of life can be free and beautiful, but we have lost the way.  Greed has poisoned men’s souls.”  While this film speaks loudly for the audience it was produced for, the final scene speaks multitudes to us all, no matter where we come from or what era we are a part of.  The timeless moral of the story is, I suppose, being able to laugh through troubled times allows us to get through a great deal.


Works Cited
Chaplin, Charles, director. The Great Dictator. 1940.
Kean, Jon, director. Swimming in Auschwitz. Bala Cynwyd Productions, 2009. 

Chaplin, Charles. My Autobiography. Brooklyn / London, Melville House, 1964. 

Sunday, July 13, 2014

California Caprese Salad

I will never forget the first time I had a real Insalata Caprese in Rome.  It changed the way I thought about food forever.
 
A classic Caprese Salad is one of my favorite examples of the ingenious use of seasonal ingredients found in Italian cuisine.  With 4 key components (tomato, basil, FRESH mozzarella and the best quality olive oil you can find), this salad sings.  It is a salad that would never be considered to made out of season -- forget those watery tomatoes you find at your local super-grocer in mid-December, and don't even consider using a shrink-wrapped, processed cheese-log of mozzarella in this recipe.  This is a salad best enjoyed with local, farm stand produce and with FRESH mozzarella cheese found in a pint container (or sometimes plastic bag) that is soaking in water.  It is a salad that highlights the flavors of the ingredients themselves.  It is a dish that just screams SUMMER!
 
This is my own interpretation of an Italian classic.  I call it a California Caprese because all of the ingredients I used come from California.  The olive oil is from Solvang -- wine country a few hours to the north of where I live in San Diego -- and is flavored with Meyer lemons.  The cheese is from Hawthorne, and the produce is all from within a 60 mile radius of my house.  I encourage you to seek out your own local ingredients for this salad.  That's what makes it truly special.
 
 


California Caprese Salad

Serves 4 as an appetizer

3 Heirloom tomatoes, in various colors
1 (8oz) package of FRESH mozzarella (see headnote!)
1 bunch of basil
2 peaches, still somewhat firm
2 ears of corn, briefly roasted in a hot oven  in the husk (450 for 10 minutes should do it), or grilled   over direct, high heat to obtain char-marks without the husk
Good quality sea salt (I used grey sea salt from France), as needed
Freshly ground black pepper, as needed
Very good olive oil, as needed for drizzling
 
Remove the core of the tomatoes with a paring knife then cut them into 1/4" slices.  Slice mozzarella into similarly sized slices (you will need 1 slice of cheese per tomato slice).  Pick an equal amount of basil leaves from your bunch.  Cut the peaches in half, and twist to separate the halves from the pit; remove the pit.  Cut peach into wedges, again 1 wedge per tomato slice.  Remove kernels of corn from cob and place in a bowl. 
 

Lay the tomato slices out on your cutting board, a large plate or a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper (just something large enough to accommodate them all).  Season with salt & pepper. 

To assemble the salad, decoratively layer the tomato slices with a piece of cheese, a leaf of basil and a wedge of peach.  Sprinkle with corn kernels and a little additional salt & pepper.  Drizzle with olive oil.  Serve at room temperature by the pool. 


 
 
 



Friday, February 28, 2014

The Top 12 Things I Learned in Culinary School




Three years ago I made the decision to enroll in culinary school at The San Diego Culinary Institute.  Over the 9 months that followed, I worked harder than I ever thought I could.  The amount of things that I was not only taught but LEARNED -- both in & out of the kitchen -- are innumerable.  I was going to make this a "Top 10" but I just couldn't narrow it down.  So here is an even dozen of some of the things that stick out the most in my head.

1.  Kitchen Safety & Sanitation.
This is probably the single most important aspect of cooking.  Before setting foot inside the kitchen classroom, we were required to take this course.  It was boring as hell, I'm not going to lie.  But preparing food for people is a very dangerous business.  There are so many things that could go wrong with food product from the time of delivery to the time you put it in your mouth, it's scary.  Being aware of ways to reduce the risk of getting people sick or even injuring someone is of the utmost importance. 

2.  Clean as You Go.
Maintaining a clean workspace is crucial for a number of reasons.  The first, obviously, is to prevent cross contamination.  If you just finished fabricating a chicken on your cutting board, do you start prepping salad ingredients without washing it?  (Not to mention your HANDS!!!).  Of course not!  As a personal chef, I do a lot of work in small kitchens (my own being the smallest!).  If I don't stay on top of my dishes, utter chaos will ensue.  Suddenly I can't use my sink or see the counter or use my cutting board because everything is buried in cooking debris.  Then you start to panic because you can't find anything, you're out of clean pans and you pretty much want to scream.  However, if you clean things as you use them & put things away when you are done with them (not only dishes, but ingredients you are working with), you are better able to stay focused, which means you work faster and more efficiently.

3.  Knife Skills
What are knife skills?  Safety, speed and accuracy; handling your knives properly; knowing which knife to use for which task.  The knife is the single most important tool in the kitchen, and knife skills are key.  Not only slicing & dicing vegetables, but also meat & poultry fabrication -- knowing how to trim a tenderloin without throwing most of it away and how to cut a chicken into parts without mangling it.

4.  How to Safely Puree Hot Soup
I included this because I witnessed something horrible happen in a kitchen I worked in.  The sous chef was making a pureed soup and put the hot contents into the blender.  Almost up to the top.  Now what happens when you puree something hot, is that it expands.  So, when she turned the blender on (without pulsing it), it was like Mount Vesuvius.  She had 2nd and 3rd degree burns on her face and in her eye.  The next day she looked like she had stepped in the ring with Mike Tyson. 

So, PLEASE follow these rules the next time you want to make a pureed soup: 
  • NEVER fill the blender more than halfway. 
  • Remove the small piece from the center of the lid, then place the lid on the blender, holding a towel over the opening.
  • PULSE it a few times (you will see how the contents sneak up to the top). 
  • Once it stops rising to the top every time you pulse, you can blitz away to your heart's content. 

5.  "Always Work Like You're Behind"
The director of my school always repeated this to us and it has stayed stuck in my head.  In a restaurant situation, you never know how fast those tickets are going to start to come in.  For me, as a personal chef, when I have multiple clients I need to get to in a day it is important for me to stay on task, and to move both quickly & efficiently from the moment I load up my car in the morning.  I work like I'm behind all the time so I don't actually end up behind at the end of the day.

6.  Adapt & Overcome
Every now and then, things don't go as planned.  In culinary school, my problem solving capabilities were acutely sharpened.  I made a pudding pie for a lady the other day from a recipe she gave me.  The pudding part would not thicken.  You don't want to cut into a pie and have it be a runny soup all over your plate.  So, instead of throwing the whole thing away I asked myself, "How can I fix this??"  I added gelatin to it.  It was perfect. 

Or maybe I'm missing a tool, or an ingredient -- this happens quite often when I cook in other people's homes.  I assume every kitchen has a vegetable peeler, or tongs, or a certain type of pot, or FLOUR.  Sometimes I assume wrong and have to make due; you have to make it work.  It's not always easy, but it's never impossible.

7.  Recipes from magazines & celebrity "chefs" are sometimes wrong and don't work.
I touched on this in #6.  In school we were not so much taught recipes as TECHNIQUES.  For my job, I read recipes every single day to get ideas for the meals I plan for people, and there are many times I make modifications because the technique is WRONG, or the ratio of ingredients is way off.  There is a certain technique to blooming gelatin; there is a butter to flour to liquid ratio in a roux if you want to thicken a sauce.  There are specific WAYS to incorporate that roux into a sauce so that it doesn't end up a lumpy disaster.  Sometimes you just have to tweak things -- both in the kitchen and in life.

8.  "Let it Cook, No?!?!"
Another one of my favorite sayings from a French chef instructor!  When you are searing a piece of meat, you have to wait and not touch it; if you want your port wine to reduce to a nice, syrupy consistency ........ LET IT COOK:  A life lesson in patience.

9.  Mise en Place
Simply stated:  "Things in place".  This is sort of the Boy Scout mantra of the kitchen.  Be prepared.  Do I have enough onions?  This recipe requires a stand mixer:  do they have one in their kitchen or do I have to bring mine?  Do I have my knives?  Do I have all the ingredients I need sliced, diced, weighed and measured properly?  I ask myself these questions from the moment I wake up in the morning to the time I put my head on my pillow at night.

10.  The Importance of a Timeline
There is also mental mise en place:  knowing what you need to accomplish and having a plan of attack to get the job done.  This is my strong suit.  In school, I was ridiculed and nicknamed "Timeline Girl" (by those that were jealous of me!).  The chef instructor made a copy of my timeline for my baking & pastry final and passed it out to the class so they would know how to write one properly.  I'm not bragging.  I'm super anal about timelines.  Every time I cook for one of my clients, before I step foot in the kitchen -- theirs or mine -- I write a timeline.  It allows me to organize how I am going to multitask, and in what order makes the most sense and will save me the most time.  There are moments where I DO feel "in the weeds" -- I have to be to my next client's house in an hour and I'm still cooking!!!!  I freak out!  But I look at my list with all the tasks crossed out and see I only have 2 things left out of 30 to do and I know I'm right on schedule.  That means I can focus, finish what I have to do, and move on to my next victims!

11.  Taste EVERYTHING.
Does it taste good?  No?  OK, what does it need?  I made a shrimp curry yesterday.  My client doesn't like spicy food, so I left out the chili peppers.  It had cumin, coriander, ginger, garlic, turmeric, coconut milk, coconut flakes, lime and tamarind in it.  When I tasted it, I could taste NONE of those flavors.  It was just FLAT.  I added salt.  Nope, still not right.  After looking over my shoulder to make sure no one was looking, I added a pinch -- just a teeny tiny one -- of cayenne pepper.  I tasted it again and the result knocked my socks right off of my feet.  Suddenly I could taste every ingredient that was in that dish.  Knowing how flavors work with each other and how to balance them is what makes food taste not just good, but AWESOME.

12. ALWAYS be sure to check the "Open-Eye" shelf before asking the chef ANYTHING!
The chef is a busy guy (or gal!).  The chef doesn't want to be bothered and most certainly does not have time to compensate for your stupidity.  Don't ask where the thyme is when it's right there in front of you on the spice rack.  Ask yourself the question first and be sure to look good and hard before making a fool out of yourself.

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Thanksgiving: It's All About the Turkey!


Today, as families across America prepare the meal that every single one of us looks forward to all year long (I know I do!), I shudder to think of all the food safety violations being made!  From cross contamination to time temperature control; from undercooked turkey meat to (what many people forget about)  undercooked stuffing!  It grosses me out.  As a culinary student, one of the most beneficial parts of the program I went through BAR NONE was the food safety-sanitation course.  Feeding people is a dangerous business -- be it in a restaurant, or in one's own home.  After seeing some rather disturbing raw poultry pics on Facebook this morning, I thought I would take the time to sit down and share with those of you that read this (bless your hearts!) my top 3 turkey safety tips. 

1.  IF YOU TOUCHED THE RAW TURKEY, WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE TOUCHING ANYTHING ELSE!  Don't wipe your hands on your pants or the kitchen towel you plan on using to dry the dishes with later on; don't just rinse them under cold water; don't think using the hand sanitizer is enough.  After handling any uncooked meat, wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap under WARM (not HOT) water by rubbing them vigorously together.  As you do this, sing "Happy Birthday" in your head (or out loud, if the mood suits you!).  When you have finished the song,  you may turn off the water and dry your hands with paper towel (then follow with the hand sanitizer, if you feel it necessary!).  Please do not handle the turkey, then grab the paper towel, then go searching through  your spice rack, then set the table .... Wash your hands first.  PLEASE.  I cannot stress this enough!  In my kitchen, I actually use latex gloves for handling poultry of any sort.  When I am done, I strip off the gloves and STILL wash my hands.  Salmonella is serious business. 

2.  BE SURE TO SANITIZE ANY SURFACE THAT THE TURKEY MAY HAVE TOUCHED!  This starts in the refrigerator, believe it or not.  I place any meat I have in the refrigerator on sheet pans (or cookie sheets) that can be easily removed and washed in case of any leakage. It is really disgusting when you have a thawing turkey in your fridge on the top shelf, hovering just above a pumpkin pie you might have baked the previous day, or next to some raw salad ingredients you might have hanging out, only to discover as it thaws that there was a teeny tiny hole in the packaging it came in and you have "juices" dripping all over the place.  It's not good enough to wipe it out, or rinse it.  If this horror-show happened in my fridge, I would remove everything inside, tossing anything the contaminate may have dribbled on, and scrub every nook and cranny with bleach solution.  It is best to keep the potential hazard contained (either in a bowl or on a pan), and on the lowest shelf in your fridge, FAR AWAY from fresh veggies. 

Then, when you are finally ready to roast your bird and you take the turkey out, whether you had it in your sink, on a cutting board, or (GOD FORBID!) directly on the surface of your counter ............ SANITIZE.  This goes along with washing your hands:  cross contamination is a MAJOR cause of food born illnesses.

3.  COOK THE BIRD TO 165!  The little pop out timers that come in the Butterball you bought at the store???  NOT to be trusted!  They belong in the garbage.  It is important to insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh (the dark meat takes the longest to cook), taking care that it does not touch the bone.  Before you do this, be sure to calibrate your meat thermometer.  This is VERY easily done by filling a glass with ice, then with water.  Dip the thermometer into the ice water, and it should read 32F (or 0C):  that's freezing.  If it does not, you can calibrate it by adjusting the nut directly under the temperature display.  If you have one with a battery & it does not read 32F, you need to replace the battery.  It's that simple.  OH!  And if you are one of the extremists that feels it is absolutely necessary to put the stuffing inside of the cavity .... The STUFFING also needs to be 165 before it is safe to eat.  Why?  All those rosy pink juices that add "flavor" could just as easily get you sick EVEN if the meat is done. 


By following these 3 VERY IMPORTANT rules, you will greatly decrease the chance of getting any of your loved ones sick this holiday season. 

Happy Thanksgiving!!!!  :-)





Wednesday, May 15, 2013

My All-Time Favorite Pasta Dish

 
When I have nothing to eat for dinner and I am starving, this is my go-to recipe.  I always have eggs in my fridge, pasta in my pantry, and bacon in my freezer (wrapped in plastic, then in foil, & stored in a plastic zip bag.  To thaw, unwrap and place bacon on a plate in the microwave. Cook on high at 15 second intervals until bacon has thawed just enough so you can peel away your desired amount of bacon. Re-wrap and place back in freezer).  And EVERY self-respecting person should have a big block of parm in their cheese drawer!   Carbonara is a traditional Roman pasta dish, and this is a very traditional recipe for it.  The pepper is what gives this recipe its name – it is a dish the Italians have dedicated to their ravenous coal miners.  The peas, however, are an untraditional addition.  I added them simply because I was craving a vegetable and that’s all I had!  Spaghetti is typically the pasta that is used, but if you don’t have any, you can substitute whatever pasta is available.  Orechiette would be a good choice, as the “little ears” would provide a perfect vessel to transport the sweet little peas to your anxiously awaiting mouth. 
Spaghetti Carbonara, for 1 Really Hungry Person Who May or May Not Have Had Anything Else to Eat All Day Besides 3 Cookies
Half a box of dry spaghetti, or pasta of choice (8oz)
1/3 cup frozen peas
2 strips of bacon, pancetta or, even better, guanciale, cut crosswise into ¼”X1" strips (lardons)
¼ cup white wine, plus more for drinking
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
Several grinds of black pepper
A hefty grating of parm cheese (1/4-1/2 cup)
 
Bring a big pot of water to a boil. 
 
Thaw peas in the microwave very briefly -- about 30 seconds, just so they are no longer frozen solid.  If they are still cold, that's fine.
 
While you’re waiting for the water, place bacon in a cold sauté pan, large enough to hold all the pasta.  Heat over medium heat and cook bacon until it is almost crisp.  Deglaze pan with wine and let it simmer until it is thick & syrupy.  Remove from heat.
 
Once water is boiling, season with a handful of kosher salt.  Cook pasta until al dente.  Be sure to reserve ¼ cup of the starchy pasta water before you drain the rest.
 
As the pasta cooks, in a small bowl, combine the egg, egg yolk, pepper & cheese.  Set aside.
 
When the pasta is done, heat the pan with the bacon over medium-high heat.  Once it starts to bubble again, add the peas and the pasta to the hot pan, and toss to coat thoroughly.  Let it get good and hot, continuing to toss, for about a minute.  REMOVE FROM HEAT.  (This is the most important part!)  Give the egg mixture a final whisk, and get your tongs ready.  Pour over the hot pasta and IMMEDIATELY stir the pasta so it coats all the strands.  The heat from the pasta will melt the cheese and cook the eggs just enough to give you a nice, silky sauce.  Add a splash of the pasta water to loosen the sauce a little bit (not the entire ¼ cup … usually just a tablespoon or 2 is sufficient).   If you leave the pasta in the pan too long, the eggs will scramble.  So as soon as all the pasta is coated, place in a serving bowl.  Garnish with more cheese and a few more grinds of pepper.  Enjoy after a long day, with the rest of the wine :-). 

Saturday, April 6, 2013

My Favorite Champagne

 

According to my ex-husband, I have many things that I label as "my favorite". The list of my favorite foods is pretty much endless. My favorite restaurants are innumerable. My favorite shoes, my favorite outfits, my favorite books, my favorite movies ....



 But my favorite thing in the world -- FOR REAL -- is champagne.  I love the sound the cork makes as it is pushed out of the bottle by the pressure from the gases contained within.  I love the ethereal fog that rises out of the opening of that bottle once the cork is expelled.  I love the shape of the champagne glass, and I love watching that perfectly chilled, sparkling wine cascade down its slanted slope.  I love watching the countless bubbles rise to the surface.  I love its crispness, its coolness and its magic.  I love its romance and its honor; its reputation.  And champagne, after all, can't come from just anywhere.  To be called "champagne", it has to COME from Champagne:  a region in France about 100 miles east of Paris.

 

And my FAVORITE champagne?  Veuve Clicquot.  Mostly because it is an outstanding wine, but also because of the legacy this famed widow left behind.
 
The House of Clicquot was founded in 1772 by Phillipe Clicquot-Muiron.  The family had several vineyards and he decided to establish a family wine business.  From the beginning, he vowed to "cross all borders" with his champagne.
 
Phillipe's son Francois joined the business in 1798, and the first shipment of the family's champagne was sent outside of France to Venice.
 
In 1805, Francois passed away and his widow (veuve, in French), Nicole-Barbe Clicquot-Ponsardin, took over the business at the age of only 27.  The original family business was also involved in banking and wool-trading, but she decided to focus on the champagne production.  Taking over the House of Clicquot, she essentially became the first business woman of modern times.
 
In 1811, a comet shot across the Champagne sky.  That year, there was an exceptional harvest and Madame Clicquot used grapes from this "comet harvest" to make "les Vins de la Comete", which set the foundation for the House's reputation of excellence.
 
As the Napoleonic wars came to an end, in the year 1814 Madame Clicquot made a huge move.  She risked her entire fortune and ran the blockade with 10,000 bottles of her most precious vintage.  They were sent o St. Petersburg, where celebrating Russians were charged the equivalent of $100 per bottle.  Her Champagne was praised by the likes of Pushkin, Chekov and Gogol.
 
By the time Madame was in her late 30's, she had become one of the richest women in France, with annual sales over $30-million.


Today when you pour a glass of champagne, one thing you notice about the wine is not only the bubbles, but the clarity.   Before the days of Veuve Clicquot, champagne was actually cloudy.  This was due to the lees in the wine -- the dead yeast cells.  Before drinking a glass of bubbly prior to the year 1816, you had to decant it or let it rest in the glass so the sediments could fall to the bottom.  The photo above illustrates these sediments in the wine, in a bottle that has been allowed to rest on its side over time while aging.


Madame Clicquot, however, invented something called a riddling rack.  After aging, the bottles are placed on one of these racks and held at a 45-degree angle.  Twice a day, the bottles are gently shaken and turned, alternately to the right and to the left, and the angle is gradually increased.  The sediments in the wine get pushed towards the neck, which allows them to be disgorged -- the wine near the cork with the sediments in it is frozen and then the cork and frozen plug are removed, then more wine is added as needed to refill the bottle.  Madame Clicquot kept this process a secret for 10 years, which helped set her champagne above all the rest, and earned her her respected nickname:  LA GRANDE DAME DE CHAMPAGNE.  This process is still practiced today.
 
The Veuve Clicquot vineyards occupies over 515 hectares (1273 acres), 485 hectares of which are in production.  Out of those, 360 belong to Veuve Clicquot, and 125 are owned by the LVMH Group (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy).  This land is spread out over the very best champagne growth areas in France:  12 of 17 of the Grand Crus come from here, and 19 of 44 Premiers Crus.  The average classification is close to 97% based on the wine growing properties of the terroir & the quality of the grapes.  Of the grapes grown here, 47% are white chardonnay, 42% are pinot noir, and 11% are pinot meunier.


If you look at a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, There are a couple symbols you will see that are behind the House of Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin. The first is the anchor on the cork, and various locations on the label. It is the Christian symbol for hope & rigor and was chosen in 1798 by Phillipe (the founder) as the cork brand. In that era bottles were not labeled, and the cork held the only distinguishing mark.


You will also see a royal seal.  Veuve Clicquot holds a Royal Warrant of Queen Elizabeth II of England.  It is the circular logo that appears on the yellow band.  The warrant enables the supplier to advertise the fact that they supply to the Royal Family, which gives a great deal of prestige, obviously, to the supplier.


Last, but certainly not least, you will notice the woman on the wire cage that secures the cork:  Veuve Clicquot herself.
 
Madame Clicquot died in 1866.  In 1877, The House began using their trademark yellow labels.  The company was placed on the French stock exchange in 1963, and by 1972, The House created a prestigious award called The Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award in her honor.  In 1987, Veuve Clicquot became part of The LVMH Group.
 
Much of what we associate with champagne today, Madame Clicquot is responsible for.  From its clarity, to its standard of excellence, to its association with style, elegance and glamour, we have La Grande Dame de Champagne to thank for.  Veuve Clicquot is, by all means, a favorite among favorites.

 


Thursday, March 21, 2013

Butternut Squash & Swiss Chard Lasagna

 
 

As a personal chef, lasagna is not only one of my favorite things to make for my clients but also one of my favorite things to EAT!  I usually make it in aluminum loaf pans found in the baking aisle at the grocery store.  One lasagna noodle fits perfectly in the pan if you buy the flat, no bake ones made by Delallo.  That way, you don't have a huge pan of lasagna sitting in your fridge that you feel obligated to eat before it goes bad.  You can make a few loaf pans at time, if you want, and parbake the ones you aren't going to eat.  Let them cool, wrap them tightly in foil, and then simply put the extras in the freezer.  Thaw in the refrigerator overnight and bake, uncovered, in a 350 oven until hot and bubbly. 

Homemade lasagna beats the heck out of the crap in the frozen food section, and there are about a million variations.  Besides the traditional meat and cheese sort, you can make it with practically any vegetable (mushrooms, artichoke, eggplant, spinach ... to name a few), so it's a good way to utilize fresh, seasonal produce.  For those with wheat allergies, you can use gluten free noodles (rice noodles are actually really good!) or you can even SKIP the noodles and just layer vegetables like zucchini, eggplant, and roasted red bell pepper with sauce and cheese. 

Of all the different lasagna recipes I have come across, this Butternut Squash & Swiss Chard Lasagna is one of my favorites.  In place of the Swiss chard, you can substitute pretty much any green such as kale, collard greens, dandelion greens, broccoli rabe ..... Any one will work.  You can buy sauce in a jar, but I like to make my own.  It's super easy.  And if  you have any extra squash, just put it on a cookie sheet in a single layer and freeze; put it in ziplock bags the next day and it's ready for the next time!

 

Butternut Squash & Swiss Chard Lasagna

 

1 small butternut squash
Salt & pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
Nonstick cooking spray
4oz part-skim ricotta
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/2 cup frozen spinach, thawed
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/4 cup onion, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes (or more, to taste)
1 bunch of Swiss chard (or any leafy green), ribs removed & discareded; leaves chopped & washed
2 cups tomato sauce (purchased, or homemade -- see recipe)
3 flat, no boil lasagna noodles (if you are using the skinnier ones with the curly edges, you might need to use 2 per layer, and break them a little to fit in the pan)
1/3 cup grated mozzarella cheese

1 foil loaf pan (8" X 3-7/8" X 2-15/32")

Preheat the oven to 375. 

Cut the ends off of the squash.  To remove the skin, you can use a vegetable peeler or if you have a VERY sharp knife, cut the squash in half crosswise so one piece is the neck and the other pieces is the round, bulbous part of the squash.  Setting the squash on a flat end, you can now use your knife to carefully peel the skin away.  Cut the peeled chunks of sqush in half lenghtwise, remove the seeds from the bulbous end, and then cut them into 1/4" slices.  Toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil & season with salt & pepper.  Place them in a single layer on a foil-lined cookie sheet and roast until just tender, about 8-10 minutes.

Coat the loaf pan with cooking spray. 

Squeeze the spinach with your hands to extract the liquid.  Stir together the ricotta, parmesan cheese, spinach, oregano, cinnamon & nutmeg.  Season with a little salt & pepper.

Heat a saute pan over medium heat.  Add remaining olive oil to pan and cook the onion until it is translucent.  Add garlic & chili flakes to pan and cook until you can smell the garlic, being careful that it does not burn.  Add the chard to the pan, and cook until it is wilted, stirring pretty constantly so it cooks evenly.  Transfer to a bowl & set aside.

Coat the bottom of a baking dish with about 1/4 cup of tomato sauce.  Lay pasta in sauce.  Spread half of the ricotta cheese on the pasta, then layer with squash.  Lay another sheet of pasta on squash & cover with half of the remaining tomato sauce.  Cover with chard (you can freeze any extra in a ziplock bag for next time, or use it to make a second loaf pan!) & spread remaining ricotta on top.  Cover with noodles & sauce, sprinkle with mozzarella.

Spray a piece of foil with nonstick cooking spray & tightly cover the dish.  Bake until bubbly, about 30 minutes.  Test noodles for doneness by inserting a paring knife into the lasagna.  As soon as the noodles are tender, remove foil and bake until the cheese browns a little bit.  Remove from oven and allow to rest about 10 minutes before serving.

Makes 1 loaf pan; 2 servings.

Basic Tomato Sauce

2-28oz cans of whole tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil
8-10 cloves of garlic, smashed, peeled & left whole
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon chili flakes
 
Put the tomatoes in a big bowl and (this is my favorite part!) squeeze them with your hands!!!  Careful, because the juice tends to squirt a little bit.  Set aside.
 
In a large, deep saute pan (big enough to hold all the tomatoes), heat the olive oil over medium to medium high heat.  Toss in the garlic cloves.  Tilt the pan so the garlic is basically deep frying.  Continue cooking until the cloves are golden (do not burn because they will be bitter).  Carefully slide in the squished tomatoes (the oil will sputter because of the water content) and stir.  Bring to a simmer and then add the bay leaf & chili flakes.  Reduce heat to low/medium low, and simmer until the sauce had thickened, stirring frequently so the bottom does not scorch. 
 
You can leave the chunks of tomato, or you can pulse it in a food processor or with an immersion blender for a smoother texture. 
 
Season to taste with salt & pepper.
 
Makes about 1 quart.